Tag Archives: sweatshops

University of Michigan one of 21 schools to cut Russell contract over labor violations

University of Michigan Recently Cut Its Contract With Russell Over Labor Violations

In response to the closing of a garment factory in Honduras employing over 1800 workers after the plant unionized, the University of Michigan has cut its contract with the Russell Athletic Corporation. The cut is one of 21 contracts Russell has lost in the last two months.

The campaign, spearheaded by Students Organized for Labor and Economic Equality, was the twelfth such termination and received coverage in the New York Times. United Students Against Sweatshops, a national student/labor group, launched its campaign against Russell last year. Since February, multiple cuts have been reported every week at universities including Harvard, Minnesota, Purdue, Cornell, Wisconsin, Rutgers, and fourteen other schools.

Russell closed one of its Honduran plants, Jerzees de Honduras, after 750 workers decided to join a union. Management and workers were embattled over workers’ contracts, including access to clean drinking water, living wages, and an end to verbal abuse. In a statement to the New York Times, Russell admitted that “management mistakes were made that led to a failure to adhere” to “standards on freedom of association,” but the company has tried to salvage its public image through the use of a website, ReinInRussell.com, designed to fool people looking for USAS’ Rein In Russell site. It may be some time, however, before their public relations division can rebuild the company’s reputation, as the whole incident has been a PR debacle for the company.

West Michigan USAS affiliates have a history of contract fights over companies’ poor labor records, some of which have been successful. Grand Valley State University‘s USAS chapter pressured their school to terminate its contract with Taco Bell after tomato pickers in Florida, the Coalition of Immokalee Workers, demanded the first increase in their wages since the 1970s. While GVSU did not cut their contract, the students’ pressure against Taco Bell and its owner Yum! Brands was significant, and the CIW eventually won the campaign and have led successful fights against Burger King and McDonald’s.

In addition, Aquinas College‘s Social Action Committee led a successful campaign to terminate their school’s soda contract with the Coca-Cola Corporation in light of the company’s involvement in anti-union violence in Colombia. Members of the SINALTRAINAL union have been kidnapped, tortured, and murdered by paramilitaries in collaboration with bottling factory management for their unionizing efforts. In addition, the corporation has caused extreme environmental degradation including the poisoning of groundwater in India. Over forty universities around the country have cut their Coca-Cola contracts.

Debate Asks if Sweatshosps Save Lives

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Last night at Grand Valley State University (GVSU), the GVSU Economics Club–with support from the Mackinac Center’s Students for a Free Economy–hosted an event titled “Do Sweatshops Save Lives? A Debate on Enrichment vs. Exploitation?”

While the event did include participation from GVSU’s Students for Fair Trade and an anti-sweatshop activist from the International Labor Rights Fund, the event was largely aimed at convincing attendees that sweatshops are beneficial to developing economies and workers in developing countries.

Arguing in favor of sweatshops was Benjamin Powell, an economics professor at Suffolk University and a fellow at the conservative Beacon Hill Institute and the Independent Institute. Powell began by describing what a sweatshop is in terms quite similar to what anti-sweatshop activists often use. He said that sweatshops often pay low wages by US standards (often under a dollar per day), have poor working conditions, are uncomfortable, and are often dangerous in some respect. However, he said that a key fact is that workers chose to work there, doing so because it is the best option available to them. This was a central theme of his talk, with Powell explaining that for many workers sweatshops are a better choice than prostitution, trash scavenging, or subsistence farming.

Interestingly, to support his argument, Powell looked at wages paid in sweatshops. He cited data gather through his research to show that wages paid in the garment industry–even ones in Bangladesh paying $0.13 an hour or $0.44 and hour in China–typically out pay other jobs in those economies. He also analyzed wages paid at factories protested as “sweatshops” in the US to show that they pay more than other jobs in those countries.

He argued that it is important that people in the United States not do anything to jeopardize these jobs, otherwise people will be forced into worse jobs. Among the ways that these jobs could be jeopardized are labor standards, minimum wage, and boycotts. Powell argued that conditions will get better as economies develop and workers choices of where to go (i.e. factories that pay more or offer safer conditions) will pressure employers. Moreover, he said that during the industrialization of the US and Europe labor protections were not enacted until production had reached a certain level and he cautioned against campaigns aimed at banning the use of child labor or legalizing collective bargaining laws that might require workers to be part of unions.

Arguing against sweatshops was Bana Athreya of the International Labor Rights Forum. Athreya defined a sweatshop differently than Powell, stating instead that a sweatshop is a “workplace in violation of core labor standards” outlined by the International Labor Organization (ILO). These include four standards:

* Freedom of association and the effective recognition of the right to collective bargaining

* Elimination of all forms of forced or compulsory labour

* Effective abolition of child labour

* Elimination of discrimination in respect of employment and occupation

She argued that if you have these–along with a functioning industrial democracy and a system to address disputes–wages don’t matter.

Unlike Powell, she talked specifically about conditions in sweatshops. She told the story of Thuyen Nguyen, a Vietnamese-American businessman who visited Nike factories in Vietnam. When he toured the factories at tours setup by Nike, workers said they liked their jobs, but when he went back at night workers told him about harassment ranging from slapping to name calling and begged him to tell their story.

Athreya said that what workers say–not what her or Powell say–matter the most. She said that in Indonesia, where she did research in the early 1990s interview “hundreds and hundreds of workers” in sweatshops, she heard stories about abuses and also stories about workers going to great lengths to organize unions and strikes even when such actions were legally prohibited. Athreya also refuted the idea that workers simply “vote with their feet” if they don’t like their jobs or working conditions. She told of strikes throughout Asia–even some reported in the past couple of weeks–as indicators of what workers really think.

She argued to have a truly “free” labor market, there cannot be political repression and anti-union efforts that hamper workers. Athreya argued for decent working conditions, stating that US history shows that changes were gain through organizing, not benevolent actions on the behalf of employers who suddenly emerge and decide they want to pay more and treat their workers better.

In many ways, the very fact that this event happened represents a victory for the economic right. In the early part of this decade, Grand Valley State University (GVSU)–like many college campuses across the country–was home to an active chapter of United Students Against Sweatshops that won concrete victories. The group at GVSU successfully organized to get the University to sign-on to the Workers Rights Consortium (http://www.workersrights.org/) to help ensure that University apparel is not made in sweatshops and worked to educate the campus about sweatshops. It’s hard to imagine during that time that a speaker could have come and argued against most even the must basic labor regulations–a prohibition on child labor–without being confronted by angry anti-sweatshop activists.

Report Details Michigan Government’s Use of Sweatshops

Sweatfree Communities, a group organizing to pressure governments to use anti-sweatshop procurement policies, has issued a new report finding that the State of Michigan is purchasing uniforms made in sweatshops. The report, titled “Subsidizing Sweatshops: How Our Tax Dollars Fund the Race to the Bottom, and What Cities and States can do” details how governments use tax dollars to support sweatshops and to increase downward pressure on labor rights, wages, and working conditions.

The report–based on person-to-person interviews with workers at twelve factories–details the following government contracts using sweatshop labor in Michigan:

Brand: Lion Apparel

Factory investigated: Alamode in Siquatepeque, Honduras

Vendor: Lion Apparel Inc.

Product: Dept. of Natural Resources uniforms

Contract: 071B4200347 http://michigan.gov/documents/web_contract_12037_7.xls

Conditions found:

* Overtime is forced, unpaid, and undocumented. Regular hourly wages are below minimum wage.

* For union organizing, employees are faced with firings and police repression.

* Workers are afraid to speak with monitors, having been told by managers that they would be fired if they talked with anyone about the working conditions in the factory.

* Women are forced to take a pregnancy test each year, and are fired if found pregnant, even though Honduran law provides paid maternity leave.

* Safety gear is not available. The working environment is hot and unsanitary. Bathrooms are unclean and not supplied with toilet paper. However, when a monitor visits, safety masks appear on workers’ faces, toilet paper is in the bathrooms, and the toilets have been cleaned.

Brand: Dickies

Factory investigated: Two factories in Karachi, Pakistan.

Vendor: National Dry Goods Co., K2id (http://www.logofit.com/corporate_main.html)

Product: Dept. of Natural Resources uniforms, clothing

Contract: 071B4200338, 071B6000919

http://michigan.gov/documents/web_contract_12037_7.xls

Contact SweatFree Communities for detailed contract information.

Conditions found:

* Wages are the same as ten years ago (averaging the equivalent of $80-$109 per month) and significantly less than workers’ need for basic living expenses. Pay is often received late, and sometimes not at all, and workers are cheated of overtime pay.

* Workdays average 10-13 hours per day, and occasionally workers must work around the clock. Some workers claim schedules that last 30 days straight with no break. These schedules are involuntary; if workers don’t agree to the long hours they risk their job.

* Workers are hired and paid through an employment contractor. Workers’ rights do not apply to contracted workers.

* Worker organizing is forbidden. If workers are found to be organizing in any way they are fired. Even casual conversation between workers can constitute termination.

* When workers have an opportunity to speak with corporate auditors, management tells them how to respond to the questions.

Brand: Fechheimer

Factory investigated: Hui Yang Charming Garments in Huizhou City, Guangdong, China

Vendor: METROPOLITAN UNIFORM CO

Product: Uniform Shirts and Trousers for the Michigan State Police

Contract: 071B6200245 http://michigan.gov/documents/web_contract_12037_7.xls

Contact SweatFree Communities for detailed contract information.

Conditions found:

* Schedules are sometimes 13 hours of work per day for 30 days straight, which is almost double the legal maximum work hours for a month. Taking a day of rest is not an option for workers, or they will lose three days of wages and bonuses by way of punishment.

* Workers claim that around 20 under-aged workers, as young as 14 years old, are at Charming Garments, violating Chinese labor law.

* Sewing machine operators are paid by piece so when orders are low, wages are very low. When there are big orders, workers must work long hours for no overtime pay.

* Managers prepare fake wage and hour slips to show auditors. Underage workers are hidden from auditors on inspection days by taking a forced “day off.”

The report calls on the State of Michigan to join the Sweatfree Consortium to pressure companies to improve their labor practices.

Ehlers Supported Trade Agreement Contributing to Sweatshops in Central America

The National Labor Committee–an organization that fights to defend the human rights of workers in the global economy–has released a new study finding evidence that the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA) has facilitated the development of sweatshops in Central America. In 2005, West Michigan Representative Vern Ehlers supported CAFTA.

The National Labor Committee’s most recent investigation has found that Salvadoran women sewing $165 jackets for The North Face and $54 shirts for Eddie Bauer cannot afford to pay for basic necessities on the wages paid at the Korean owned Youngone S.A. de C.V. factory. There, workers report being paid only 94 cents for each $165 North Face jacket that they sew while enduring sexual harassment, forced overtime, and verbal abuse. An effort to form a union failed when the organizers were all illegally fired.

While these conditions are ostensibly illegal under CAFTA, the limited enforcement mechanisms have allowed the conditions to persist. The National Labor Committee has previously documented other instances in which CAFTA has contributed to the development of sweatshops in the Americas.

Wal-Mart Sweatshop Workers Tour at GVSU

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On Wednesday, the “Wal-Mart Sweatshop Workers Speaking Tour“–featuring two workers who supply clothing and food sold at Wal-Mart–stopped in West Michigan at Grand Valley State University (GVSU). The West Michigan stop is part of a larger tour of the Midwest that brought two workers–one from Costa Rica and one from Cambodia–to build support for Michigan and Ohio to join the State and Local Government Sweatfree Consortium. The tour focuses on Wal-Mart because they are the biggest retail store in the United States and as such are the largest user of sweatshop labor. Overall, it offered valuable insight into both conditions in sweatshops and some ways in which they can be challenged.

The first speaker, Didier Lifton, is a union organizer from Costa Rica. He worked on banana plantations for several years before being fired for union organizing in 2000. Since that time, he has observed working conditions on banana plantations across the country and has found that conditions are extremely bad. Workers are paid low wages (below the Costa Rican minimum wage of $280 per month) and are exposed to a variety of hazards including sun and poisonous chemicals. Even when workers do get the minimum wage–which is rare–it often covers only 50% of the necessities (food, shelter, clothing) needed. In addition to the banana plantations, he also said that conditions are similar on pineapple plantations and that pineapple plantations–in part due to growing demand from Wal-Mart–are increasing. Lifton told the audience that this has meant increased deforestation and that he has witnessed a company clearing 100,000 acres in a year.

Phal Savin spoke next and told of her work in Cambodia sewing clothing for Wal-Mart and her firing for union organizing. Her story was similar to Lifton’s, telling the audience of wages that could not cover the basic necessities of life and intimidation tactics used to dissuade workers from organizing to improve their conditions. Savin told the audience that workers at her factory were frequently forced to work overtime when there were orders, and that when there were not orders, workers were sent home early resulting in inconsistent wages. She said that she could make anywhere from $15-$25 per month and that she was basically treated like a slave. She said that while Wal-Mart does theoretically do audits of working conditions and pay at its factories, the owners control what the auditors see and only allow them to speak to friendly workers.

Finally, a representative of Sweat Free Communities spoke about the need for people in the United States to take action. She urged people to “shop with a conscience” but also spoke about the need to get active in organized struggles. She urged the audience to become a part of a campaign to get Michigan to join the Sweatfree Consortium. The Consortium is a policy designed to insure that government procurement orders are filled via factories that are not sweatshops. The campaign says that many governments–including Michigan who spends $40 million per year on boots and uniforms–are subsidizing sweatshops.

Students Arrested at University of Michigan Sit-In

On Tuesday night, twelve students at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor were arrested after refusing to leave the office of the University’s president (video of the arrests: 1, 2). The students, part of the campus group Students Organizing for Labor and Economic Equality (SOLE), held the sit-in following eight years of organizing on the University of Michigan campus around the issue of sweatshop labor. Following the arrests, activists at the University of Michigan are calling on supporters to call the University or to complete an email action demanding that the charges be dropped and that the University sign-on to the Designated Supplier Program.

The Designated Supplier Program (DSP)–the focal point of the sit-in at University of Michigan–is a “comprehensive program for enhancing the enforcement of university codes of conduct” that govern the conditions under which apparel bearing university logos are produced. The DSP is seen as the “next step” in anti-sweatshop organizing on college campuses and a necessary move to enhance “codes of conduct” that were won by local affiliates of United Students Against Sweatshops (USAS) in the early 2000s as it provides critical monitoring and enforcement capabilities designed to ensure that university licensed apparel is not made in sweatshops. The program has been supported by thirty colleges and universities around the United States, including West Michigan’s Grand Valley State University (GVSU), as well as larger universities such as the University of Wisconsin Madison, Duke, and Indiana University.

At the University of Michigan, the University’s administration has refused to support the DSP despite student support. Following a 51-hour sit-in in 2000, the University of Michigan adopted a “code of conduct” that guarantees workers producing university apparel freedom from harassment and discrimination, but has no system that ensures compliance. Beginning in 2005, activists with SOLE have argued that the DSP would monitor factories and assure adherence to the University’s Code of Conduct. However, University President Mary Sue Coleman has refused to accept the DSP and sent the issue to the Labor Standards and Human Rights committee for investigation. The committee voted against adopting the DSP in April of 2006 but failed to provide an alternative measure despite concluding that current monitoring practices were insufficient. In March of this year, a Sweatfree Coalition-imposed deadline for adoption of the DSP was ignored without a response from University administrators, prompting the sit-in on Tuesday. Students argued that a second “report” by the committee to be released on April 20 would not make any substantive improvement in the conditions under which University apparel is made.

At the start of the sit-in, University President Mary Sue Coleman briefly told the students “we don’t accept demands from students.” Even as the sit-in progressed and received a considerable amount of media coverage (http://www.uofmsitin.com/press.html), President Coleman refused to discuss the issue with the students. The University did offer a meeting with an administrator named Gary Krenz and some other administrators, but that was it. According to the sit-in blog, the possible meeting was to be discussed Tuesday evening, but it is unclear as to whether or not the offer was accepted given the arrests.

University of Michigan Administration Building Taken Over, Students Demand Action Against Sweatshops

As of earlier today, student activists at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor have taken over an administration building to protest the university’s failure to sign on to the Designated Suppliers Program (DSP). According to a statement released by the group doing the sit in:

Students at the University of Michigan entered the President’s Office at about 9:00 AM, and said they were going to stay until the University takes steps to reverse their “complacency with U of M apparel being produced in sweatshops” said senior Noah Link. The students entered the building carrying backpacks full of food, sleeping bags, and laptops. “We’re prepared to say as long as we have to” said junior Aria Everts, “This process is 8 years in the making, we need to see it through.”

She was referring to the University’s Code of Conduct, forged until President Lee Bollinger, which codified a set of standards those like Nike and Addias must adhere to when producing apparel bearing the U of M Logo. “[University President] Mary Sue Coleman has acknowledged that the Code is rarely enforced, and that those factories that do enforce become uncompetitive and are shut-down, but has yet to take any proactive step to stem this problem” said junior Jason Bates.

The students say the occupation is eight years in the making. The Code of Conduct was produced out of a similar sit-in by the same group in 1999, after which they issued a statement saying their victory was a “down payment” on the University’s commitment to take a stand against sweatshops, “Today, we’re here to collect.” said Bates.

The students advocate signing on to the Designated Suppliers Program, which they say will “reward the high road” and create a “race to the top”, “empowering the University, giving it the tools it needs to enforce the [Code of Conduct]“, but that the University’s bureaucracy currently employs a “non-process” that “stalls instead of stimulates ideas on this issue” commented Link. “That’s why we’re here” said Everts, “Because the University won’t take action on this issue. We’ve tried their process, their meetings and forums and conferences, we’ve tried it for two years, and we’re still no closer to a solution.”

Purdue University Hunger Strike in its 24th Day

A hunger strike by student activists at Purdue University is in its 24th day. The hunger strike was undertaken in November after a year long campaign by the Purdue Organization for Labor Equality (POLE) to get the university to sign on to the Designated Supplier Program (DSP). Activists are demanding that Purdue sign-on to the Designated Supplier Program as a way of addressing the fact that clothing bearing the Purdue University logo is made in sweatshops. The university has failed to act on the issue, despite activists presenting research from an independent monitoring agency called the Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) and hosting lectures by workers describing conditions at factories, both of which have made it abundantly clear that Purdue’s apparel is made in sweatshops. The hunger strike was launched after a multi-faceted campaign involving meetings with administrators, rallies, and a sit-in were unsuccessful in getting the university’s support for the DSP. After being on hunger strike for over two weeks, the group finally got a meeting with university president Martin Jischke. Despite the fact that five hunger strikers have been hospitalized, the university has not made a decision in support of the DSP. The hunger strike garnered considerable media coverage and has received statements of solidarity from student and labor organizations around the country, including Grand Valley State University (GVSU).

The Designated Supplier Program (DSP) stipulates that clothing bearing a university logo must be made in factories where workers have a democratic union or free to form one, where workers can bargain toward a living wage, and where Purdue’s Code of Conduct is followed. As one of United Students Against Sweatshops (USAS) national campaigns, thirty-one universities, including West Michigan’s Grand Valley State University (GVSU), have signed onto the DSP.

Protestors Tell Victoria’s Secret to Keep the Gina Factory Open

On Saturday, Students Against Sweatshops GVSU held a protest at the Victoria’s Secret store inside of Woodland Mall in Grand Rapids. The protest—part of a “national day of action” organized by United Students Against Sweatshops—demanded that Victoria’s Secret respect workers’ rights and stop the closing of the Gina Form Bra Factory in Thailand that producers bras sold at the retail chain. At 3:00pm on a fairly busy Saturday, ten people distributed leaflets and held signs informing customers and mall patrons about Victoria’s Secret’s plan to close the factory. While the Woodland Mall security forced the protestors out and the protest was over within ten minutes, all such protests must be reported to Victoria’s Secret’s corporate headquarters. A similar protest took place later in the day outside of a Victoria’s Secret’s store in Lansing, as well as at others across the country, which will ideally make the demands know through Victoria’s Secret’s internal communications channels.

The factory—at which workers won the right to unionize in 2003—has been exemplary both in terms of its treatment of workers as well as the quality of products produced according to an email action alert issued by United Students Against Sweatshops. The factory’s management has told workers that the plant’s closing is “the wish of the brands” for which the factory produces (these brands include not only Victoria’s Secret, but also Calvin Klein and Charming Shoppes). The possible closing of the factory comes after workers there have achieved a number of gains including increases in production bonuses, paid union leave, wages, lunch benefits, and ongoing monitoring of the factory’s health and safety conditions. The factory is one of the few that pays close to a living wage, although this will change if production is shifted to China at the end of October 2006 as the factory’s parent company—the Clover Group—is planning. The Clover Group argues that this move is necessary because of competition in the industry and rising costs, specifically because goods can be produced for less in China as unions such as the Gina Relations Workers Union at the Gina Form factory are outlawed. While the Clover Group has not “overtly blamed” the union for rising costs, its actions and possible factory closing make it clear that it hopes to close the Thai factory and move to China where they will not have to meet the demands of the union according to United Students Against Sweatshops. Despite the fact that the close will force 1,600 people out of jobs in Thailand, none of the companies buying from the Gina Form Factory have made public statements or taken action regarding the closure.

People who support the workers’ rights are encouraged to send an email to Victoria’s Secret in order to magnify the effects of the protests held over the weekend.

Students Against Sweatshops Holds Sweat-Free Campus Fashion Show at GVSU

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Grand Valley State University’s (GVSU) Students Against Sweatshops (SAS) held a Sweat-Free Fashion Show September 14 on campus, in solidarity with the United Students Against Sweatshops’ national day of action. The fashion show highlighted the sweatshop conditions that GVSU’s apparel is made under and raised awareness about the group’s Sweat-Free Campus campaign. The Designated Supplier Program (DSP) that SAS is working for would ensure that all campus apparel be purchased from brands that manufacture their garments in factories that pay a living wage and don’t participate in practices of union-busting. The details of the program have recently been reworked by USAS, and GVSU’s administration must approve the new program before the DSP can be implemented at the university.